A Change of Scenery

by Jeff Yocum

“A Change of Scenery” focuses on day trips from Thurmont that are within 150 miles (give or take). These trips will not include “Disney-level” destinations, but rather, lesser-known points of interest. The purpose of the article is to suggest venues for folks seeking a short, easily accessible change of scenery. In the process, hopefully something will be learned. Some will be historic, some cultural, and others just plain quirky. I confess an ulterior motive for writing this article: I have a wanderlust addiction.

Many historical events as Harpers Ferry, West Virginia. The town’s location between two rivers was the perfect incubator for launching the town into the Industrial Revolution. The rivers powered the many mills, factories, and armories that sprang up along the banks. Meriwether Lewis outfitted the famous 1804 Lewis and Clark Expedition with products made in those shops.

Less than 30 years later, the C&O Canal began operation along the northern bank of the Potomac. Harpers Ferry then had a vital link to Washington, D.C., as well as the western frontiers. Railroads followed just a few years later, with some of the first railroads in America.

In 1859, John Brown’s failed attempt to seize the armories and capture weapons for his slave rebellion shocked the nation. The event introduced another character who would soon be a prominent figure on the American stage. Colonel Robert E. Lee led the U.S. Marines, who killed and captured Brown’s raiders. Lee also presided over the execution of the raiders.

 Some view Brown’s raid as the spark that led to the deadliest era in American history: the American Civil War. Harpers Ferry was once again in the forefront—particularly in the early phases. Its industrial capacity was recognized and prized by both the North and the South. The town changed hands several times in the early months of the war. Mixed into all this history are the many floods. The 1936 flood reached 36 feet, and the 1870 flood claimed 42 lives.

Witnessing all of these monumental events is the rock cliff on the Maryland side of the Potomac River, known as Maryland Heights. For years, my wife and I have talked about doing the hike to the overlook to get the birds-eye view of the town.

Our hike began with a little research about the trails and parking. I recommend either the US Park Service Visitors Center or, just across US 340, the Jefferson County Visitors Center. The Park Service has parking at the visitor center with a convenient shuttle service into town. I recommend avoiding parking in town. Spaces are limited in town, and the 18th century streets get clogged easily.

The hike to Maryland Heights begins by crossing the Potomac River by one of the railroad bridges. The close-up view of the river is quite scenic, and, if you’re a fisherman, a chance to see one of the river’s plump smallmouth bass. Once on the Maryland side, head west along the C&O Canal for a little less than half a mile to a footbridge that crosses the Canal. The trailhead is directly across Harpers Ferry Road from the footbridge.

The trail is relatively wide, but, be advised, it is moderately steep most of the way. Appropriate footwear, water, and an understanding of one’s physical condition are strongly encouraged.

The trail that begins at the trailhead splits into two, red and blue. The Red Trail is the one that leads to the overlook. It’s about 1.4 miles in length. The Blue Trail leads to an old Civil War-era stone fort. Trail maps are available at the visitor centers.

My wife and I picked a perfect September day. Cobalt-blue skies, cooler temperatures, and a slight breeze combined for a very pleasant, although strenuous, hike. We were rewarded with panoramas of the town and the two river valleys that defy adequate description. 

As I stood gazing down on the town, I couldn’t help imagining witnessing the ebb and flow of history. What would it have been like to watch John Brown’s raid?

Thankfully, the descent from the overlook was much easier and faster. Too tired to eat, we treated ourselves to milkshakes from the A La Mode Café located on Potomac Street.

All in all, the hike was challenging for a pair of septuagenarians. It was, however, well worth the time and effort. We did sleep well that night.

. Overlooking Harpers Ferry from Maryland Heights.